How to tell the difference between a genuine Hermes tie and the Asian fakes? There are many things to look for. As the different types of ties have somewhat different parameters we'll focus on the best known of all, the Hermes Twill tie. If you have questions about the Heavy Silk Lourde, Scarf, Faconnee, Knit or Leather ties please don't hesitate to ask.
Far and away, the greatest number of Hermes ties listed on eBay, and sold around the world, are the number and letter-coded lighter twill designs.These come in two essential types: the classic geometric patterns and the whimsical, animal inspired, designs. Regardless of design, all coded twill Hermes ties are printed in a multi-layered, many colored process (incidentally, while often imperceptible, Hermes does not recycle colors but blends and creates new colors for every new design). If given the chance, let your fingers do the walking and simply feel the fabric: a brand new Hermes tie will have a firm, almost stiff feel to the fabric which softens over time to a rich and supple softness.
Hermes twill ties have a characteristic fold in the back while the fakes are simply sewn together. Under this "dovetail" fold on the back of the wide end of the tie is a small thread loop approximately 1/2" to 1" long jutting through the silk lining. Hermes is the only tie maker in the world to utilize a trademarked single thread stitch from one end of the tie to the other (this thread runs the entire length of the tie, and back, and can also be found looped under the narrow end). This single stitch tucks under the rear folds of the tie and can be used to gently snug up the seams should they loosen over time.
Fakes utilize the common heavy stitch closure to tack down the edges on the back of the tie. Additionally, the fakes are often shiny while a genuine Hermes tie is much more subtle and matte in appearance. The fakes are heavy feeling while the twill on the genuine ties is lighter. A ten year old Hermes tie is 3 1/4 inches wide, a 15 year old Hermes tie can be 4 inches wide and an older tie quite narrow. Most of the Asian fakes are slightly wider than the current standard of 3 5/8 inches (trending towards narrow again...).
NB: Every printed and numbered Hermes tie has the bias of the twill running in the same direction. If you are looking at the tie, and imagine the face of a watch, the twill will always run from precisely 11 to 5 (8 to 2 for the scarf ties). The interior silk lining on a standard Hermes tie is the same color as the tie background and the threads will run horizontally. The raised "H" lining commonly seen on fakes is particular to certain models of Hermes ties only (Heavy Silk Lourde and Faconnee come to mind); the correct lining for the printed twill tie is solid colored matching the primary color of the silk. All Authentic Hermes Ties have an Alpha-Numeric Code on the inner edge of the narrow point, about 5 inches from the tip. Study this code closely... it will consist of a two, three or four digit number that indicates the pattern code, followed by two letters that denote the design factory (EA, FA, HA, IA, MA, OA, PA, SA, TA or UA). Fakes will often, inexplicably, add more digits or some other confuser. The rectangular box that encloses the code will generally ( but not always) match a color from the front; it will always read: "MADE IN FRANCE" above the code and "100% SOIE" below the code. Note, also, the almost square box on the opposite side of the tie at about the same location as the code box as it will read "HERMES" over a smaller "PARIS" and both boxes will match in color
Even the Asian boxes are fake and generally have a black border instead of the classic brown and the inner portion is not pure white and smooth. These boxes tend to be incorrectly shiny, as well.
Take your time when appraising the auction images and you will almost never be fooledThere are many, many Asian fakes on eBay and they can be spotted a mile away. The fakes on eBay are setting a new low standard of expectations for buyers who are being introduced to Hermes for the first time...and the fakes are getting better. Remember, if the price seems too good to be true then it is too good to be true!
I have sold over 10,000 Hermes ties of all vintages over the years to experienced buyers and the feedback is universally favorable. I stand behind my ties 100%. I invite you to take the tie that you have purchased from me to any Hermes boutique for their opinion. Please write me back if you have any more questions. Andrew.
A U T H E N T I C I T Y: Authenticity is a very important issue. I do not sell fakes, I never have. I do not condone the selling of replicas that are violating a copyright. It is a crime punishable by law and dishonest. There is nothing one can do about the amount of fakes being sold on eBay and everywhere else. We must only learn how to distinguish authentic items from replicas by knowing our designer items very well, studying our sellers, checking the items carefully, checking the prices and only buying from reputable sellers.
I DO NOT SELL FAKE ITEMS, EVER!!! BUY WITH CONFIDENCE. AUTHENTICITY IS GUARANTEED!!!!